MATERIAL

Chosen by hand at the covered market in Istanbul — by weight, by fall, by how it takes the light. One hundred per cent wool, 420 g/m². Heavy enough to hang straight, soft enough to fold. Carried overland to Tbilisi; the journey is part of the coat.

For summer the coat keeps its architecture in a double-faced wool — 300 g/m², two layers woven as one. Light enough for the season, dense enough to hold the form. A soft cloth would make it a robe; this one stays a building. [TEST]

Cupro is spun from the down that clings to the cottonseed — a fibre that would otherwise be thrown away. It is cool, it drapes like silk, and it holds deep colour: cobalt, ochre, green. It lines the sleeves — loud only in motion.

The outside is quiet. The inside is loud.

One cinnabar thread runs down the centre-back seam — on the outside, from collar to hem, perfectly straight. It is 朱 — shu — the old word for this red: lacquer, torii gates. The spine of the coat, made visible. The red thread is the signature.